Ankole

In the 1980s, after moving from the UK to Uganda, Lesley Magnay became familiar with the striking Ankole-Watusi cows, often seen grazing and being herded along the roadsides when traveling upcountry. Knowing these cows were primarily bred for beef and dairy, Lesley began to wonder—what happened to the by-products of these animals? With a bit of research, she discovered that while the hides were used to make leather, the horns were simply burned as waste. Seeing the potential in this beautiful, natural material, Lesley believed it could be up-cycled. Inspired by this idea, she founded East African Trading Company in 2012.

When the COVID-19 pandemic and the years that followed made it challenging for Lesley to travel to the UK for retail events, she began to consider retirement resulting in the business closing. However, a chance conversation at an event in London changed the future of the business. There, Lesley and her husband John met Emma Richardson, who was exhibiting at the event with her other business. With a shared love for Africa and a deep admiration for the company’s mission, Emma recognised an opportunity to continue and expand the brand’s legacy.

Inspired by the business’s commitment to sustainability and community empowerment, Emma purchased the company and rebranded it as Ankole, paying homage to the iconic cattle that inspired its creation. With fresh vision and enthusiasm, she launched a new website and introduced modern collections, strengthening the brand’s identity while staying true to its ethical foundations. This revitalisation not only expanded Ankole's reach but also deepened its commitment to supporting local artisans and preserving traditional craftsmanship.

Over a decade since its founding, Ankole continues to collaborate closely with local, family-run businesses, all located within a mile of Lesley’s family home in Kampala. These partnerships ensure that the brand remains firmly rooted in its origins while embracing a sustainable and ethical future. Today, Ankole stands as a testament to the power of sustainable craftsmanship, African heritage, and the lasting impact of community-driven entrepreneurship.

 


Since our founding in 2012, our mission has been to responsibly utilise this rare and natural material while preserving the environment. We are committed to adopting low-impact solutions and focusing our production entirely at the local level, supporting and empowering businesses within our community. By sourcing all our Ankole cow horn exclusively and directly from local farmers, we provide much-needed additional revenue to rural areas, fostering economic growth and stability.

Our approach is not only sustainable but also ethical. We ensure that no animals are harmed for their horns, the material is a by-product of the meat industry, by up cycling the horn we are reducing waste and promoting full use of the animal. The beef cattle we source from are free-range and raised in open pastures. This ethical, community centred model allows us to create beautiful products while supporting both the environment and the people who make our work possible.

Located in the heart of Kampala, our workshop is run by a local family who have been close friends of Lesley’s since she moved to the city in the 1980s. Here, the horn undergoes a meticulous, hands-on process to ensure the highest quality of product. First, the horns are individually boiled and then struck against a rock by hand to remove all tissue and debris from inside the horn. Afterward, they are dried and thoroughly cleaned. Once cleaned, the horns are sanded and polished, a process that takes about a day per horn, depending on its size. At this stage, the horns can either be left in their natural form as unique, sculptural ornaments or further transformed.

For homeware and jewellery pieces, the horns are hand-cut and split, then individually boiled in oil and skilfully manipulated into various shapes. This detailed, artisanal process not only produces stunning, one-of-a-kind creations but also supports ethical craftsmanship and sustainable practices.

For centuries, cow horn has been crafted into practical and decorative objects such as drinking vessels and buttons. At Ankole, we honour and preserve this ancient craft. By continuing to work with this natural material, we not only celebrate a rich cultural heritage but play a vital role in sustaining local knowledge and empowering artisans. Through hands-on training and mentorship, we provide opportunities for younger generations to learn the intricate techniques of working with horn. This transfer of skills not only preserves a time-honoured tradition but also offers a sustainable source of income for local communities. Each piece we create is a testament to the artisans' expertise and the enduring legacy of horn-working, a tradition we are proud to protect and share with the world.

We are proud to support a variety of local businesses in Kampala, with a particular focus on empowering women-led enterprises whenever possible. By working closely with these businesses, we not only contribute to the local economy but also help preserve traditional craftsmanship and create sustainable livelihoods.

One of the initiatives we are especially proud of is our partnership with a local women's group that handcrafts our packaging, gift boxes, and gift bags. Using banana fibre and recycled paper, these artisans create beautiful, eco-friendly packaging that we use in our shop and at events. This collaboration not only reduces waste but also provides a reliable source of income for the women involved, fostering financial independence and community development. Our relationship with this group is one we value deeply and have nurtured over many years.

In addition, the protective cotton bags used when sets of horns or salad bowls are purchased, are the result of another women-led initiative. The cotton fabric is woven by a women's cooperative based in Kampala, preserving the skill of traditional weaving. Once the fabric is ready, our talented local seamstress, Barbara, and her team carefully stitch it into durable, elegant bags. To complete the process, our skilled embroiderer, Howard, embroiders our logo onto each bag, adding a distinctive, personal touch. This collaborative effort not only supports multiple small businesses but also ensures every aspect of our packaging reflects the care and craftsmanship that goes into our products.

Beyond these initiatives, we also work with and support local boda boda drivers, providing them with regular employment for transporting our materials and products around the city. Furthermore, we collaborate with a company that recycles imported motorbike boxes. These boxes are repurposed and reshaped to create sturdy, sustainable packaging for exporting our horn products to the UK. This innovative recycling effort reduces waste while allowing us to ship our products safely and responsibly.

By partnering with these diverse local businesses, we strengthen the community, promote ethical production practices, and ensure that every element of our process,  from sourcing materials to packaging and delivery, supports and uplifts the people behind the craft.

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